Hail can turn a quiet afternoon into a flurry of frantic checks and what-ifs. You hear the stones slap the shingles, you watch ice pile up in the lawn, and you wonder what just happened on your roof. As a roofing contractor who has inspected hundreds of hail-hit homes, I’ve seen every outcome, from cosmetic scuffs that age out gracefully to punctured mats and bruised shingles that start leaking under the first hard rain. This guide sets out the practical process for evaluating a shingle roof after hail, deciding between shingle roof repair and roof shingle replacement, and navigating materials, labor, and insurance without burning time or money.
What hail actually does to an asphalt shingle
Most shingle roofing on homes uses asphalt composition shingles with an embedded fiberglass mat. The granules on the surface protect the asphalt from UV. Hail doesn’t need to be baseball-sized to cause trouble. Even pea to marble-sized hail, when wind-driven, can erode granules, fracture the mat, or dislodge seal strips. The damage typically shows up in three ways:
Granule loss is the most common and least intuitive form of damage. From the ground, the roof looks fine. Up close, you’ll see spots where granules have been knocked off, exposing the black asphalt. That exposure accelerates UV degradation, and over the next few seasons those spots dry out, craze, and shed more granules. Not all granule loss is hail-related, though. Normal aging leaves granules in gutters too, which is why context matters.
Bruising is a soft spot you can feel when you run a hand over a hit. It looks like a dull, circular area with displaced granules. Pressing gently at the center reveals a bit of give. Think of a bruise in fruit, only this is the asphalt matrix crushed around the fiberglass. Bruises often become cracks in temperature swings.
Mat fracture is the most serious. The hailstone impacts hard enough that the fiberglass mat splits. You might see a small crack radiating from the center or no visible crack at all, just a circular hail hit with surrounding granule loss. Under magnification or with a careful lift test, the fracture is clear. Fractured mats open a path for water, and no topical sealant truly restores the shingle’s strength.
The pattern of damage tells a story. Widespread, directional hits on slopes facing the storm with collateral marks on soft metals usually mean a legitimate hail event. Scattered wear only on the south or west and no metal damage often points to normal aging or thermal blistering. Good adjusters and good shingle roofing contractors look for that whole picture, not isolated blemishes.
First moves in the first 48 hours
It helps to move quickly but deliberately. Start by taking photos of the property, not just the shingles. Photograph the mailbox, AC condenser fins, window screens, downspouts, and any soft metal caps. Those images timestamp the event and anchor the claim. If you can do so safely, look from the ground with binoculars for uniform hail spatter. Inside, scan ceilings and attic decking after the next rainfall. Fresh leaks often present as faint brown rings or damp insulation.
If you use a contractor for an assessment, choose one willing to walk the roof, mark sample areas, and explain each finding in plain terms. Be wary of blitz crews chasing storms with high-pressure sales tactics. A solid shingle roofing contractor brings a chalk, a camera, and patience. They check all slopes, valleys, ridge caps, pipe boots, skylight flashing, and gutters, then compare results to what the metal told them. A proper inspection on a typical single-story, 30 square roof runs an hour to ninety minutes, longer for cut-up roofs.
Repair or replace: sorting the decision
The right answer depends on density and severity of hits, shingle age, and roof configuration. Insurers and manufacturers also use thresholds. Many carriers consider 6 to 8 hail hits in a 10-by-10-foot test square as the benchmark for functional damage, particularly if bruising or fractured mats are present. That guideline isn’t law, but it’s a reference point.
On newer roofs, isolated damage is sometimes best handled with shingle roof repair. Replacing a few creased or bruised shingles can buy another decade if the rest of the field is solid. On older roofs, patching may create an aesthetic checkerboard and won’t stop accelerated aging from widespread granule loss. If the roof is already in the back half of its lifespan, roof shingle replacement becomes the practical route even with borderline hail evidence.
Slope complexity matters too. Valleys, dormers, low slopes tying into steeper slopes, and multiple penetrations complicate partial repairs. I’ve replaced entire slopes simply because they tied into a delicate woven valley that would have been risky to splice. You want a durable outcome more than a minimal invoice.
How insurance fits into the plan
Most homeowner policies that include wind and hail coverage pay for hail damage on an actual cash value or replacement cost basis. Replacement cost value policies reimburse the full replacement amount in two stages: an initial ACV payment, then recoverable depreciation once the work is completed. Hail claims often carry a separate wind-hail deductible, commonly 1 to 2 percent of dwelling coverage. On a $400,000 coverage A, that can be $4,000 to $8,000. Understanding your deductible determines whether a claim makes sense for minor repairs.
Three pieces influence a successful claim. The first is clear documentation, including slope-by-slope photos and collateral damage. The second is alignment with the insurer’s standards for functional damage. The third is code compliance. If your jurisdiction requires ice and water shield at eaves, drip edge, or nailing upgrades, those items should be accounted for in the scope once verified.
Expect at least one adjuster inspection, sometimes two if a reinspect is requested. A good contractor meets the adjuster, marks test squares, and shows hits without theatrics. I’ve stood on roofs where a calm, factual walkthrough turned a denial into an approval because the evidence was organized and truthful. Inflating counts or marking blister rash as hail will backfire.
When a repair is enough
For local damage, a careful shingle roof repair can preserve service life. The technique matters, especially with laminated architectural shingles. Removing a single shingle without cracking surrounding ones requires patience, a flat bar, and a warm day. Shingles at lower temperatures are brittle, and repairs can create more harm than the original issue. We pick repair windows when the shingles are at least room temperature to the touch.
Seal strips complicate things. Once lifted, the strip may not re-adhere, particularly on dusty or aged shingles. We often add a small dot of compatible roofing cement under the tabs on a hot day to assist bonding. For penetrations, replacing storm-damaged pipe boots is straightforward and usually more reliable than smearing mastic. Keep in mind that highly visible repairs on newer roofs may be covered for aesthetic mismatch under matching laws in some states, but that varies widely and should not be assumed.
Why replacement sometimes saves money long term
Owners sometimes struggle with the idea of tearing off a roof that isn’t leaking. I https://charliemcyi324.iamarrows.com/signs-of-poor-roof-shingle-installation-and-how-to-fix-them get that. What tips the scale is the compounding effect of hail damage you can’t see from the driveway. A fractured mat creates a stress riser that propagates with thermal cycling. A bruise displaces oil-rich asphalt that was protecting the fiberglass. Those weakened spots tend to crack sooner, and the roof begins to shed granules unevenly. Tracking leaks once that process begins is messy and expensive because they don’t always appear under the visible hit.
When replacement is warranted, you regain the manufacturer’s warranty, reset the clock on aging, and, if you choose an impact-resistant shingle, you may qualify for a premium credit from your insurer. In my market, Class 4 shingles typically earn a 10 to 25 percent credit on the wind-hail portion of the policy. That can offset part of the upgrade cost over several years.
Selecting materials that match your priorities
Not all shingles handle hail the same. Three-tab shingles, once common, have a single layer and little dimensional stability. Architectural laminates are thicker and perform better. Among laminates, Class 4 impact-resistant shingles pass UL 2218 testing by withstanding a two-inch steel ball dropped from 20 feet without cracking the mat. That lab test doesn’t replicate every hailstorm, but it’s a meaningful indicator.
Beyond IR ratings, look at the asphalt formulation and granule adhesion. Some manufacturers use SBS-modified asphalt that retains flexibility in cold weather. That helps during installation and in later hail events. Warranties vary, and no shingle warranty covers hail damage itself, but manufacturer support matters for defects or early granular loss unrelated to hail.
Underlayment is your next lever. Traditional felt still works, but high-temp synthetic underlayments resist wrinkling and handle heat better, which matters for dark shingles and low slopes. Ice and water shield in valleys and along eaves up to the warm wall is cheap insurance, even if not strictly required by code in warmer climates. Drip edge at all eaves and rakes reduces wind-driven rain intrusion and gives a clean line.
Ventilation is the quiet workhorse. Intake at the eaves and exhaust at the ridge or through static vents prevents heat buildup, reduces condensation, and preserves asphalt oils. If the old roof lacked balance, fix it now. I have seen shingle roofs fail 5 to 7 years early because a beautiful shingle job sat on top of starved ventilation.
Flashing deserves full attention. Reuse only when it is truly intact and compatible with new shingle thicknesses. Step flashing at sidewalls should be replaced, not tarred. Counterflashing on chimneys often needs to be reground into the mortar joints. Skylight kits are specific to the skylight brand, so coordinate those parts in advance.
What roof shingle installation looks like when done right
A clean tear-off sets up a solid installation. Crews should protect landscaping, roll magnets for nails daily, and tarp gutters. Once the old shingles are off, we inspect the decking, replace soft or delaminated OSB, and renail if older spacing falls short of current codes. A flat deck is critical for tight shingle lines and uniform sealing.
Underlayment goes down in straight, tight runs. Ice and water membrane in valleys first, then synthetic underlayment lapped per manufacturer guidelines. Drip edge at eaves should be installed under the underlayment, with rake drip edge over it to shed wind-driven rain correctly. Valley style matters. I prefer an open metal valley with a W-panel in heavy snow regions and a closed-cut valley in mild climates. Each has a method to avoid short shingle cuts that concentrate water.
Starter courses are not a place to improvise. Use factory starters with proper sealant lines at eaves and rakes. Field shingles follow the pattern, with nails placed in the designated zone. Nail placement is non-negotiable. Too high and the shingle can separate; too low and it risks exposure. Four nails per shingle is common, six nails on steeper slopes or for high-wind ratings. Nails should be flush, not overdriven or angled.
Penetrations get boots sized to the pipe with primes applied to the membrane underlayment. Each boot has its own nail and seal sequence. Skylights and chimneys demand their own kits and step flashings layered with the course lines. Ridge vents, if used, require consistent slot cuts that don’t overopen at hips.
Finally, ridge cap shingles finish the lines. On IR roofs, use matching IR-rated caps if available. It’s a small cost difference that maintains impact performance at the most exposed edges. The last day is detail day: paint exposed accessories to match, seal cut ends where required, and run a final magnet sweep.
Costs, timelines, and what can go wrong
Across much of the country, architectural shingle replacement on a simple one-story, 20 to 30 square roof ranges from roughly $7,500 to $18,000 depending on region, material choice, tear-off complexity, and code items. Impact-resistant upgrades typically add $30 to $60 per square. Steep roofs, two-story access, multiple layers to tear off, and extensive decking replacement push costs higher.
A typical schedule for roof shingle replacement runs two to four days for that 20 to 30 square home once materials are on site. Weather stretches that timeline. If rot shows up during tear-off, add a day. Specialty flashings or skylight kits can slow the job if not ordered ahead. If you are working through insurance, expect two to six weeks from claim to build, driven by adjuster schedules and permit queues.
Pitfalls come in familiar flavors. The most avoidable is poor communication. Homeowners often assume every ding they see will be paid, then feel blindsided when the adjuster calls it wear. Contractors sometimes assume the homeowner understands ACV versus replacement cost and how depreciation is released. Misaligned expectations sour good projects. Another frequent issue is mismatched scope, where the insurer pays for a basic valley but the roof requires metal valleys or code-mandated ice barrier. Getting the scope right on the front end reduces supplemental fights later.
How to pick a shingle roofing contractor you can trust
Storms invite a small army of trucks to your street. Some are excellent roofers chasing a tight season. Some are middlemen who sell the job and pass it to the cheapest crew in town. You are trying to find the first kind and avoid the second. Take your time, even under pressure.
- Ask for a roof-specific, line-item scope that reflects your roof’s design. You want underlayment type, valley style, ventilation plan, flashing plan, and cleanup process in writing. Verify licensing, general liability, and workers’ comp certificates directly from the insurer, not a forwarded PDF. Request addresses of recent hail jobs and drive by. Look at lines, ridge caps, and cleanup. Knock on a door and ask about communication and follow-up. Confirm they will be on site during the adjuster meeting and during critical phases of installation, not just sending a crew. Clarify warranty terms for workmanship and how service calls are handled if a leak appears in a winter storm at 2 a.m.
That shortlist keeps you in charge of the process without becoming a roofer yourself.
Edge cases and judgment calls from the field
Older three-tab roofs with intermittent hail hits can confound even experienced eyes. Thermal blisters pop and shed granules in circular patterns that mimic hail from a distance. The giveaway is the raised blister dome, often with a small crater at the center after it pops, not the clean, flattened impact you see from hail. Marking blister rash as hail is a fast track to a denied claim. I’ve walked homeowners through that difference with side-by-side photos and a hand lens. Clarity prevents long arguments later.
Another tricky scenario is the gutter-guard home where debris hides the volume of granule loss. We remove a section to check. Heavy granules there can confirm the storm’s effect even if hits on shingles are subtle. Conversely, brand-new HVAC fins on the condenser can hide what the old fins would have shown. That’s why we look at multiple indicators and not just one piece of evidence.
On low-slope tie-ins, say a porch at 3:12, hail rarely creates direct leaks immediately, but the early granule loss can make those slopes burn out fast. If the main pitched areas warrant replacement, budget to do the low-slope sections with a modified bitumen or a low-slope membrane rather than forcing shingles to do a job they weren’t designed for.
Living with an impact-resistant roof
If you make the jump to Class 4 shingles, set your expectations properly. They are tougher, not invincible. In a storm with two-inch hail driven by 60 mile-per-hour winds, even IR shingles can lose granules and take bruises. The difference is in the mat’s resilience. After such storms, I’ve returned to IR roofs and found functional performance intact where standard laminates fractured. Homeowners still see some cosmetic scuffing, but the roof continues to shed water. Insurers treat IR ratings differently on claims, and some carriers exclude cosmetic roof damage from coverage. Understand that clause before the next storm.
Maintenance does not change much. Keep branches off the roof, clean gutters, maintain ventilation, and check flashings annually. The few IR shingles that use rubber-modified asphalt can scuff if installers over-handle them in very hot weather. Good crews stage bundles in shade and pace the work.
What to do today if hail just hit
If you are reading this with fresh ice still melting, move in a short arc of actions. Photograph soft metals and slopes from the ground. Check inside for damp spots after the next rain. Call a local shingle roofing contractor with hail experience and ask for a full inspection with photo documentation you can share with your insurer. Read your policy for wind-hail deductible and coverage type. Decide if your damage level justifies a claim or a direct shingle roof repair out of pocket.
If you proceed to claim, schedule the adjuster meeting when your contractor can attend. Align the scope with code and the actual roof design. If replacement is approved, use the opportunity to upgrade underlayments, correct ventilation, and consider impact-resistant shingles. Pay attention to details that carry no headline but deliver performance, like valley metal and step flashing. During roof shingle installation, keep lines of communication open. Good projects stay quiet when everyone knows what is happening each day.
A final word from the ladder
I’ve stood on roofs where hail barely left a smudge and on roofs where every ridge cap had the consistency of a bruised peach. The difference in outcomes came not just from the storm, but from what the homeowner did next. Clear-eyed inspection, honest assessment, and careful execution turn a hail event from an emergency into a controlled project. Whether your path is targeted shingle roof repair or full roof shingle replacement, the craft matters. Put your effort into the parts that last: correct materials for your climate, proper installation, thoughtful details, and a contractor who treats your roof like a system rather than a surface.
A shingle roof is durable, forgiving, and, with the right care, surprisingly resilient against the next round of ice that comes rattling out of the sky.
Express Roofing Supply
Address: 1790 SW 30th Ave, Hallandale Beach, FL 33009
Phone: (954) 477-7703
Website: https://www.expressroofsupply.com/
FAQ About Roof Repair
How much should it cost to repair a roof? Minor repairs (sealant, a few shingles, small flashing fixes) typically run $150–$600, moderate repairs (leaks, larger flashing/vent issues) are often $400–$1,500, and extensive repairs (structural or widespread damage) can be $1,500–$5,000+; actual pricing varies by material, roof pitch, access, and local labor rates.
How much does it roughly cost to fix a roof? As a rough rule of thumb, plan around $3–$12 per square foot for common repairs, with asphalt generally at the lower end and tile/metal at the higher end; expect trip minimums and emergency fees to increase the total.
What is the most common roof repair? Replacing damaged or missing shingles/tiles and fixing flashing around chimneys, skylights, and vents are the most common repairs, since these areas are frequent sources of leaks.
Can you repair a roof without replacing it? Yes—if the damage is localized and the underlying decking and structure are sound, targeted repairs (patching, flashing replacement, shingle swaps) can restore performance without a full replacement.
Can you repair just a section of a roof? Yes—partial repairs or “sectional” reroofs are common for isolated damage; ensure materials match (age, color, profile) and that transitions are properly flashed to avoid future leaks.
Can a handyman do roof repairs? A handyman can handle small, simple fixes, but for leak diagnosis, flashing work, structural issues, or warranty-covered roofs, it’s safer to hire a licensed roofing contractor for proper materials, safety, and documentation.
Does homeowners insurance cover roof repair? Usually only for sudden, accidental damage (e.g., wind, hail, falling tree limbs) and not for wear-and-tear or neglect; coverage specifics, deductibles, and documentation requirements vary by policy—check your insurer before starting work.
What is the best time of year for roof repair? Dry, mild weather is ideal—often late spring through early fall; in warmer climates, schedule repairs for the dry season and avoid periods with heavy rain, high winds, or freezing temperatures for best adhesion and safety.